TREE NURSERY
When buying stock from nursery outlets, prices for trees vary according to their species and size, with discounts for quantity purchases. A cheaper alternative to purchasing larger plants is to buy seedlings and line them out for a year or two before transplanting. Alternatively, start your own nursery.
SEEDLING AND TRANSPLANTS
A young tree is known as a ‘seedling’ for as long as it is growing where the seed was sown. Once moved, it becomes known as a ‘transplant’. The age of a young tree can be expressed by giving the time spent as a seedling in the seedbed and the time spent when moved to a transplant line. This is indicated by a ‘+’ sign. Thus ‘2 + 1’ means two years in a seedbed and one year in a transplant line giving an age of three years.
TRANSPLANT LINES
The density at which transplants are lined out depends on the size they are expected to be at the time of their next move, ie, a seedling less than 20cm in height with an expected growing rate of 75 – 100cm will have a planting density of 135 – 100 plants per m2. 100 plants per m2 gives a spacing of 20cm between rows and 5cm apart within a row.
UNDERCUTTING
Plants that have been undercut rather than transplanted are known as ‘1 u 1’ or ‘1 u 2’. These plants are left to grow if space or time is lacking for further transplanting. Longer roots are cut and new roots encouraged to develop.
SIZE OF TREE
NAME
|
OVERALL
HEIGHT
|
PLANTING
DISTANCE
|
SEEDLING
(one year old in Rootrainer/Japanese paper pot)
|
Variable
|
2 – 3m
|
TRANSPLANT
|
20 – 4cm
|
2
– 3m
|
WHIP
|
60 – 90cm
|
3
– 4m
|
WHIP
or FEATHERED WHIP
|
90 – 120cm
|
3 – 4m
|
FEATHERED WHIP
|
150 – 180cm
|
4
– 5m
|
FEATHERED
WHIP
|
180 – 210cm
|
6m
|
LIGHT STANDARD
|
250 – 275cm
|
10m
+
|
STANDARD
|
275 – 300cm
|
10m
+
|
SELECTED
STANDARD
EXTRA HEAVY
NURSERY STOCK
|
300
– 360cm
(180
– 215cm stem)
5m +
|
10m
+
20m
+
|
Feathered trees are well furnished with branches low on the stem. Standard trees have a specified length of clear stem below a crown of branches, ie, standard 275 – 300cm high with 150 – 180cm clear stem.
PLANTING
One year seedlings in Rootrainers are becoming more popular as their use maximises the benefits of using tree shelters.
Planting with the root ball intact from container grown trees results in high survival rates and strong early growth as well as an extended planting season. The risk of root deformation is high as is the cost of purchasing them, however, if planting is delayed heling in is not required.
Small trees survive transplanting better than larger ones of the same species as large plants are slow in establishment. The optimum size for most broadleaved species is 25 – 30cm. More important than the height is the root collar diameter, as thin, spindly plants are more likely to die than shorter but sturdier ones.
WEATHER
Avoid planting in sunny or cold windy drying weather. Choose cloudy, drizzly days. Be sure to firm up trees!
PLANTING SEASON
Between October to March or April. Avoid frosts. Evergreens are best planted in the spring when the soil has begun to warm, but before the first flush of new growth. Always mulch!
CONSIDERATIONS
The origins of the tree – carefully check the provenance or source of the native tree you buy as much native stock is of foreign origin – local seedstock is often best suited to local conditions.
The care with which they are handled before planting – carefully inspect for evidence of any dry and shrivelled roots, broken or scarred stems, fungal growth or insect pests. If you cannot plant on delivery then ‘hele’ them in the pre dug trenches without delay.
The protection and early care they receive – at all times the roots must be protected from drying out. Always keep the roots out of strong sunlight and drying winds. They should not be left exposed a second longer than is necessary.
The planting procedure should be careful and considered. Pit planting is usually the slowest but surest method. Treading in and firming are particularly important, as are stake and tie heights. Other methods include notch planting. Turf planting is used on wet and peaty soils.
CONTAINER GROWN
Advantage
Trees grown singly in containers can be planted out at any time of the year without any damage to the root system. They often have a large amount of top growth for the size of the root ball and if planting is delayed heling in is not required. Evergreens are best planted out in the spring. Careful planting results in high survival rates.
Disadvantage
Root deformation. The lateral roots (which in normal conditions spread outwards) begin to spiral around the sides of the container – weakens the stem and creates instability when planted out – as the new root growth has difficulty in penetrating through the root ball. Frosty sites should be avoided. Keep well watered and weeded. Often more expensive than open ground stock due to extra work and materials needed to grow them plus higher transportation costs.
Planting Out
Container grown in a light compost as this promotes rapid root growth. If planted into heavy soils the roots will have difficulty penetrating the soil and may simply continue to grow around the root ball. This can be avoided by digging a planting hole twice the diameter of the pot and half as deep again. Back fill it with half soil to half well rotted compost.
TREE PROTECTION
CONSIDERATIONS
What are the threats to the tree? Voles, rabbits, deer, livestock, vandalism, etc.
Costs – number of trees being planted that need protection. Either perimeter fencing or individual guards/shelters.
Type of protection is site specific, ie, how long is the protection needed, is the appearance important, does it need to be conspicuous for maintenance or weeding purposes?
It is never worth planting trees unless you can give them adequate protection.
Fences – guards – shelters.
FENCES
The cost of fencing relates to the size and shape of the land enclosed (regardless of the number of trees) and the type of fence protection needed, ie, livestock, rabbits, deer, etc.
GUARDS
Can be spiral, tubular, mesh or timber enclosures depending on the site requirements.
SHELTERS
Come in a range of shapes and sizes. They were designed to promote rapid growth especially in drought conditions. Young trees are protected against damage by animals. They are readily visible to relocate for weeding and maintenance purposes.
AFTER CARE
MULCHING
Keeps the ground surface moist, fairly stable in temperature and suppresses weeds. Organic or bio-degradable mulching is always favourite as these materials will decompose.
VISITS
Visit your tree regularly – firming up around the base due to wind sway or adjustments to tree shelters or tree ties are always needed.
WATERING
Newly planted trees should only need watering at planting time (be sure to soak the mulching material). The exception is drought where constant watering will be needed. Too much water can induce surface rooting making the roots susceptible to scorching when drier weather comes.
WEEDING
Weeds compete with a tree for water, light and nutrients. A weed being the wrong species in the wrong place at the wrong time. A minimum of three years protection from the time of planting is needed. Good mulching will help prevent competition from grasses, bracken, etc, usually at their strongest between April, May and June.
BEATING UP
The replacement of trees that fail is usually considered when more than 20% of the planted trees fail. Always investigate the cause of failure. A change of species may be needed. Causes can be poor plant handling (roots exposed), damaged diseased stock, poor planting procedure, wrong species for site chosen (soil, exposure, etc), mammal, insect or fungal damage, or fire.
Summer drought can take its toll in dry years. Beating up should be done in the autumn or winter after planting. Later than two years and the new trees struggle to catch up with the main crop and are often suppressed by canopy closure.
The replacements should be at least as large as the originals or of a faster growing species.
Weeding must be kept up until the tree is firmly established.
